Training Your Cockatoo

Training Your Cockatoo--To begin training a cockatoo it is important to first understand the difference between positive reinforcement training and negative reinforcement training...

Training Your Cockatoo

It is this flair for the dramatic and sense of entitlement that makes them both a very charming bird and an impossible bird. Good news...training your cockatoo will make them significantly easier to deal with. Less impossible, more charm.


So how exactly does one go about training cockatoos?

After all, they're temperamental animals right? Sometimes. Part of the reason a cockatoo may have behavior problems like screaming, biting and feather plucking, is because they've been allowed to get away with those behaviors. This is often the case for younger cockatoos. Once they reach maturity and take on a few new behaviors it all seems like too much. Owners become frustrated and the behavior problems escalate.

To begin training a cockatoo it is important to first understand the difference between positive reinforcement training and negative reinforcement training. To understand it let's take a look at two examples.


I'm sure it will be very apparent which one is which.

Scenario One. Owner comes home from work and bird starts screaming in their cage. It's obvious they want to come out of their cage. "Stop screaming!" the owner yells throwing their keys at the cage. The cockatoo stops screaming.

Scenario Two. Owner comes home from work and the cockatoo starts screaming in their cage - they want out. The owner puts their keys and bag down on a side table and walks past the cockatoo. The owner tends to their business until the cockatoo stops screaming at which point the owner walks over to the cage praises the cockatoo verbally and lets them out of their cage.

Okay so scenario one is negative reinforcement and scenario two uses positive reinforcement. What's the difference if they both result in the bird stopping their behavior? Scenario one will ultimately result in more bad behaviors. Screaming and throwing things causes fear and stress. Fear and stress cause biting, thrashing, feather plucking and it can actually cause more screaming.

Positive reinforcement teaches your cockatoo that they are rewarded for not screaming. Eventually, by repeating this technique, you're training your Cockatoo to not scream. They'll learn they get let out of their cage much faster when they're behaved. Your job is to be consistent. Always let them out of their cage as soon as they stop screaming - always reward them for the desired behavior.

Because cockatoos love attention, negative or positive it doesn't matter, it's important to give them the kind of attention which results in behaviors you want them to have.

A few additional tools you could use in that scenario to speed up the process.

A clicker. A clicker is a little tool you hold in your hand. When you press it, it makes a clicking noise. This clicking noise is used by trainers to signal to the animal being trained that it's performed the correct behavior. It takes practice to perfect the timing, however when used correctly it can significantly increase training time.

Treats. Just like you, all cockatoos have a favorite food. While yours may be a good hamburger or chocolate, cockatoos tend to favor seeds and nuts. Click, hand your bird a little treat and give them lots of praise. Cockatoos love praise. They'll be so tickled they'll be happy to not scream.

Patience. Each and every cockatoo has their own personality. That's why they're so loved. Your cockatoo's personality may mean they don't cooperate right away. If you spend a week, two weeks, maybe even three weeks listening to your cockatoo scream and scream trust the training method and practice patience. They will catch on. Are you letting them out right when they stop screaming? Are you praising them? Hold steady, once your cockatoo catches on you'll be good to go. They're smart, it'll happen.

A good training guide. Can you bake a cake without a recipe? Build furniture without a plan? No, probably not unless you're an expert. The same holds true for training your bird. You're not an expert, use a plan created by experts. Find a training program, video, DVD, or coach who can teach you how to train your bird. Try to do it yourself and you could end up making things worse. You could end up scaring your bird or stressing them out - both of which create bad behaviors.

Now we've spent a lot of time talking about a particular scenario which involved screaming however it is important to know you can train away any undesirable behavior. We could replace screaming with thrashing. We could say your cockatoo bites you when you don't pay attention to them or when they're done playing. The key is to not react negatively to the behavior. Don't scream, don't drop or hit them. Don't react.

Reward good behavior and take your cue from the experts. You don't have to let your beautiful cockatoo rule your life. You can be the boss and you can live with a charming cockatoo once again. Training cockatoos is possible.

To discover more parrot training tips and techniques, sign up for Dave Womach's free parrot training newsletter where you'll discover how to fix dozens of parrot behavior problems.

By Dave Womach
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Pet Birds Require Daily Interaction to Keep Your Bird Happy and Healthy

Pet Birds --Keep Your Bird Happy and Healthy--Great care must also be taken when feeding your bird. Each species requires different nutritional needs. If you put any bird on an all seed diet...

Pet Birds Require Daily Interaction to Keep Your Bird Happy and Healthy

Owning a pet bird or birds, whether they be a parrot, dove or canary, require daily interaction from you, the bird owner. Birds are highly intelligent creatures who are very social beings. They give unconditional love and need to receive the same unconditional love back to them.

Alex the gifted parrot proves to us that the idea of a " bird brain" is completely wrong. In fact the study that Dr. Irene Pepperberg did with Alex an African Grey parrot for 30 years of research, shattered scientists understanding of the Avian brain. Alex eventually learned enough speech elements to identify 50 different objects, 7 colors and 5 shapes. He learned to count quantities up to 6 including 0 and was able to articulate certain desires and could even express frustration with repetitive scientific trials. Alex's emotional development was similar to that of a 2 year old human child, , and his intelligence was that of a 5 year old child.

This evidence about Alex tells us that birds definitely need interaction. My experiences with my cockatiels and one parakeet (little parrots) also prove that pet birds need daily interaction and affection. Affection is highly important as well and the interaction. They ask me with their body language to pet them every day. They also like me to stay near them as if in a flock. They may ask to get on my shoulder or lap. I take my birds for a ride in the car about once a week to my Mom's. She loves to see them, and they love going for a ride in the car as well as visiting my Mom, sister and their dog. I don't let them out of the cage when I am there because of too many dangers. I take them in one bird cage which I bundle up in blankets for protection. The thickness I use depends on how warm or cold outside it is. Birds like to feel safe in their cage so the blankets covers all sides except half of the front part to look out of. I completely cover the front in bad weather or too much sun until we get into a more comfortable environment.


Great care must also be taken when feeding your bird. Each species requires different nutritional needs. If you put any bird on an all seed diet, he will get very sick or die from malnutrition. My cockatiels for example are given organic parrot pellets, Dr. Lafeber's Nutriberries for Cockatiels and some oatmeal, flax seed meal and a little millet seed. There is a nice variety of nutritional bird food in their dish which they can forage through. Foraging helps stop the boredom of your pet bird's meals. Even fresh fruits and vegetables are highly recommended and necessary for your bird's diet. I give my birds a little piece of berry from my frozen berry medley every day and some soybeans that were previously frozen and heated. But when I can get fresh vegetables and fruit, I give them apple, cooked broccoli, chopped carrot, sweet potato, white potato and corn. First thing in the morning, I give them a couple of Trader Joes O's which are almost like Cherrios. I will also give them little pieces of Spelt bread which has whole grain goodness.

My 2 cockatiels require attention from morning till evening, and I do enjoy spending the time with them. They love to be petted and have their little heads scratched. They love being talked to and like to spend play time on the floor with bird toys, ladders and special wood for birds to chew on. Their cages require daily cleaning as well as the bird dishes. Birds are messy. Water will be splashed around with seed husks, loose feathers and droppings that require daily clean up. When I go out, I put them in their cages, one in each cage if the younger bird is pushing the older bird around too much. Some times they like to decide which cage they want to stay in. I also turn on the radio with soft music or cartoons on TV. They enjoy very young childrens cartoons.

Birds may create allot of work, but the rewards of unconditional love and companionship from your feathered friends are priceless.

Parrot Health, Training
By Barbara Delgiudice
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Why Your African Grey Parrot Needs Calcium Supplements

Your parrot doesn't seem to want to eat any of these calcium based food, try giving them calcium supplements three times a week, mixed into their food bowl....

Why Your African Grey Parrot
Needs Calcium Supplements

Feeding the right food is the most important aspect of owning an African Grey parrot. The right diet will determine the health and stress level of your parrot and its ability to be trained to talk. Unlike other birds, different African Greys eat different kinds of food. Don't make the mistake of thinking that they all have the same diet patterns. If you own more than one African Grey parrot, feeding them can prove a challenge. Just like humans, they have their own preferences. But if you acquire your bird from young, say twelve weeks old, getting them used to feeding a certain kind of food can be fairly advantageous.

Some African Greys will eat soft fruit and others will only eat hard fruits. Some will eat vegetables and others will not. Try giving your parrots a variety of fruits and vegetables and see what they like best, and stick to it. But do give them a good balance of calcium because a lot of African Greys who fell sick seem to lack calcium in their diet. You can get calcium from from hard boiled eggs, watercress, spinach, blackberries or natural yogurt.

If your parrot doesn't seem to want to eat any of these calcium based food, try giving them calcium supplements three times a week, mixed into their food bowl. Do not mix the calcium supplements into the water bowl because some greys may not drink water in a twenty-four hour period because they already had their water intake from eating fruits. A good calcium diet will ensure that your parrots have fine feather and are stress free. For breeding African Greys, calcium is good for producing healthy eggs.

A healthy diet is important for an African Grey because it will minimise feather plucking and squeaking, both symptoms of stress in a bird. A healthy diet produces a healthy mind and your parrot will respond well to speech training.

Azmi Adnan is a writer and a bird enthusiast. Subscribe to his newsletter for fresh video clips on parrots and other bird species, ezines and interesting bird stories at his website http://www.power-to-live.com/parrot.html
By Azmi Adnan
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Azmi_Adnan

Guide to Hatching Eggs - How to Hatch Fertile Hatching Eggs

Care needs to be given to ventilation, temperature and humidity. You must remember that the growing chicks are living organism that exchanges oxygen and carbon dioxide through the shell during the incubation process....

Guide to Hatching Eggs
How to Hatch Fertile Hatching Eggs

Hatching eggs can be a rewarding experience for poultry hobbyists, science classes and 4-H club members. Most eggs hatched today are artificially incubated, requiring a person to monitor the environment inside an incubator to ensure that eggs receive the correct heat, air and moisture to hatch successfully. Keep in mind that no incubator is 100 percent effective. Plan for a 5-10 percent post-hatch loss for your flock as it grows to maturity and order a few extra eggs. An incubator that employs good management of the temperature, humidity, egg turning, and ventilation can expect a 50 percent (very low) to 85 percent (high) hatching rate.

Before handling hatching eggs, it is a good practice to wash and thoroughly dry your hands to prevent the spread of bacteria. For disease prevention and health reasons, it's best to get all the eggs from one source. If you get your eggs locally but cannot get the number you want in one day, try to not hold the eggs longer than three days prior to setting to hatch.

Bring the incubator up to a working temperature check your owner's manual. Once the temperature has stabilized, allow any stored hatching eggs to warm gradually to room temperature before putting them in the incubator.

Care needs to be given to ventilation, temperature and humidity. You must remember that the growing chicks are living organism that exchanges oxygen and carbon dioxide through the shell during the incubation process. To help the incubator control the egg environment, keep it in a room free from drafts, where the room temperature remains constant. Humidity is monitored and aided by the addition of water to the incubator depending on the species hatching.

Hatching eggs must be turned while in the incubator to prevent the embryo from sticking to the shell. If your incubator is not equipped with the optional mechanical turner, you must turn them by hand.

Each species of poultry need different incubation times. Quail take a shorter time than ducks and geese.

Once the eggs begin to hatch the baby chicks will need to have a place to go for their care - this should be set-up ahead of time.

Find out more and buy hatching eggs at http://www.HatchingEggs.net
By Darren Davis
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Darren_Davis

Parrot Owners - Materials Commonly Used in Bird Toys

Parrot Owners - Materials Commonly Used in Bird Toys,WOOD,ROPE,CHAIN,FASTENERS,ZINC,PLASTICS,LEATHER,RINGS,BELLS...

Parrot Owners - Materials Commonly Used in Bird Toys

WOOD

Birds need to chew, wood is an excellent material to satisfy this natural urge. Birds play most often with wood toys. Wooden toys are meant to be destroyed. Some bird owners may be frustrated by the destructive nature of their parrots. However, chewing is a natural instinct and vital to birds mental and physical well-being. If you provide only acrylic toys they will often find other, more expensive ways to satisfy their chewing needs (i.e., molding, furniture). It is important to know what woods are safe for your bird. Both soft and hardwoods are commonly used in toys.

Safe Woods (not a complete list):

Pine, Balsa, Birch, Basswood, Poplar, Maple, Walnut, Ash, Apple, Elm, Cactus (Cholla) and Manzanita

Unsafe Woods (not a complete list):

Cedar, Red Cherry, Plywood. Oak

If you like to make your own toys NEVER use pressure treated wood, it is treated with arsenic and will poison your bird. If using natural branches make sure they have not been exposed to insecticides. Also, take care to collect branches in areas removed from highways where plant life may have absorbed toxic emissions from cars. Scrub all branches with a non-toxic disinfectant (dilute chlorine bleach), rinse and dry thoroughly.

If you need to clean wood toys, don't soak them. It is best to wipe them clean with a damp cloth or sand the soiled area until clean. If your bird likes to dunk his toys beware that moisture can promote bacterial growth and the toys should either be discarded or thoroughly cleaned and dried in a low temperature oven before returning them to the bird.

Birds are able to distinguish colors therefore color makes wood toys more attractive and interesting to birds. Manufacturers usually color wood with food coloring or vegetable dyes. We don't believe in flavoring wood as the bird should not be encouraged to ingest the wood and, unless properly controlled, the fruit sugars often used provide a perfect medium for bacterial growth. Do not buy toys that have been stained or varnished to add color. If you are interested in a toy with painted parts (ie, ABC blocks) make sure that only non-toxic, child safe paints were used.

ROPE

Several kinds of rope are used in bird toys. Only 100% natural fiber ropes such as cotton, hemp (jute), or sisal should be used in bird toys. Nylon blend ropes should never be used as they can result in serious injury and cuts due to the strength of the strands if the birds get caught in it. Ropes can be safe as long as they are maintained properly and the bird's beak and nails are kept trim. There have been safety problems noted when excessive fraying occurs. Birds have choked and lost circulation to legs by getting tangled in ill maintained ropes. Rope toys have proven very beneficial in solving feather picking problems and therefore we don't like to discount rope as a viable material. Bird owners have a responsibility to check their bird's rope toys daily and to cut back or discard rope toys when they become frayed and present a hazard to their bird.

CHAIN

Chain should have welded not open links. Un-welded chain provides sharp surfaces and narrow openings which have been known to cut toes. Make sure the links are a safe size for your bird, if toes get caught in the links the result can be broken toes or legs. Chain length is also a consideration as a long length of chain could conceivably end up wrapped around a bird's neck during a vigorous play session. As the wood components are chewed off, a chain hazard could develop. Owners must monitor the status of toys and ensure that as they physically change safety hazards do not develop.

FASTENERS

This is a crucial area of concern as good fasteners are expensive and therefore many manufacturers cut corners and use potentially unsafe items such as split key rings or dog leash type snap hooks. Birds have been cut and lost circulation to toes and tongues on toys utilizing split rings and spring type clamps. For conures or larger birds we recommend either Quick-links (also sometimes called C-clamps) or Pear links to attach toys to the bird's play area. They come in a variety of sizes and can be tightened with a wrench easily to prevent the bird from unhooking his toys. This type of fastener provides the least potential for injury. They are available in a variety of sizes and can be purchased from your local hardware store if needed to replace unsafe fasteners from existing toys.

Do not use split key rings, spring loaded clips or metal shower rings to fasten your toys. Small hardware pieces can be ingested accidentally. Birds have cut toes and tongues on split rings and spring type clamps.

ZINC

A lot has been mentioned recently about zinc toxicity in birds. Many bird toys are made with zinc coated (galvanized) metal components. Zinc is also commonly found in cage powder coatings. Some avian health specialists have stated that in order for zinc related health problems to result that the parrot must actually swallow the metal components and that "beaking" the parts is insufficient for toxicity to develop unless the galvanized coating is extremely brittle and flaky. If a bird spends a lot of time chewing on toy hardware (i.e., washers, quick links, wire) then it is possible they will ingest enough zinc to build up toxic levels in their systems over time. Owners who are worried about the possible health effects can often find stainless steel replacement components at their local hardware store. This option is also often much more cost effective to the consumer than buying toys constructed with stainless steel parts.

PLASTICS

Acrylics are used in many toys today and if sized properly to the bird are virtually indestructible. If purchasing acrylic toys we recommend the acrylic have a minimum thickness of 3/16?. Recently, there has been a shift back towards wood toys because although the acrylics are durable and attractive they are also not as fun for the bird who likes to chew. We recommend that a few of your birds toys be acrylic or a blend of acrylic and wood, they will be long lasting and the bright colors used are stimulating to your bird.

When considering toys with plastic components a bird owner must consider the nature of the plastic component (i.e., soft vs. brittle) relative to the size of the bird. Brittle plastics should not be given to larger birds because when they break very sharp, cutting edges are formed and if swallowed accidentally could result in ruptured organs. Hard plastic toys specifically designed for parakeets and cockatiels should not be given to larger birds with the beak power to destroy them.

LEATHER

Leather is a great material for birds to safely play with and chew on. Most birds especially like to spend hours untying knots made in leather strips.

Only vegetable tanned leather should be used on bird toys. Do not buy toys with dyed leather or leather tanned with chemicals as most are toxic to birds (i.e., chromium, formaldehyde). For this reason you should also not retire old shoes, belts and pocketbooks to your birds toy chest.

Replace leather if soiled or wet. Bacteria will flourish under these conditions. Many toy companies will sell replacement leather strips.

When hanging toys strung on leather (or rope or chain), avoid leaving a long strand between the toy and the cage. Some birds when rambunctious with their toys can get the leather wrapped around their necks and strangle. It is best to tie the toy close to the bars of the cage.

RINGS

When choosing toys with rings or large plastic chain links make sure that the rings are of a size that the bird can't get his head stuck in them and choke. Also beware of toys with multiple rings looped directly together as birds have met similar fates when they have been trapped between the rings.

BELLS

Birds love to make noise and bells provide a fun source for their merrymaking. If a bird is mechanically inclined and can remove the clapper the potential exists for swallowing/choking. Make sure the bell clapper can not be removed by the bird. If it is not securely fastened either remove it or weld it (we recommend silver solder). Make sure the clapper is not lead (toxic), if it is lead you will be able to dent the clapper with your fingernail. Do not buys toys that use jingle type bells, toes can become caught and cut in the wide to narrow openings, we recommend the cow or liberty bell design. Appropriately size the bell to the bird so it will be able to withstand the power of the beak.

FINAL CONSIDERATIONS

Just because the label says the product is safe doesn't mean that it's OK for your bird. Any toy has the potential to be unsafe if improperly sized to the bird. Ask your toy vendor or bird store owner for help or advice on choosing a toy appropriate for your bird.

As with kids, no toy is 100% safe for all birds. Use common sense and supervise your bird when you first give him a new toy. Observe how he interacts with the toy to determine how best to hang it and where and when to allow him to play with it (some toys are safer outside the cage).

Provide a wide variety of toys and rotate them in and out of the cage or play area. Variety will help alleviate boredom and keep your bird more alert and curious. Keep 2-3 toys minimum in the birds cage and don't overstuff the cage so the bird doesn't have room to move.

Don't assume that if your bird doesn't like a toy that it won't play with any toy. Try something different and take the time to observe what your bird finds interesting in terms of design, texture or size.

Introduce toys to baby birds but make them small...don't intimidate them. Hand toys are some of the safest toys available and they are especially great for young birds as they help to develop hand-eye coordination.

Play with your bird...most birds think it's great fun to chase balls across the floor or couch, play "catch" or "pick it up" with mom or dad.

This guide is by no means comprehensive but we have tried to address as many issues as possible. When in doubt, ask for help. We sincerely wish you a long, happy and healthy relationship with your bird.

If you read this article and found it helpful, consider stopping by my website http://www.BirdToys.com
You can also find me and over 17,500+ other parrot owners at http://www.BirdBoard.com where you can ask questions and get immediate feedback.
By Kelli L
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

The Canary in the Mine

The Canary in the Mine

Back in the olden days before we had electronic sensing devices, canaries were used in mine shafts to detect poisonous fumes that might kill the miners. Because canaries are so small, it doesn't take much of a dose of toxic fumes to make them ill or kill them. When a canary keeled over, the miners would rush out of the mine shaft to safety. This system worked great for the miners. Not so great for the canaries.

Your pets are the modern day version of the canaries in the mine. Cats, dogs, gerbils, birds, and the like are all MUCH smaller than you. A small dose of a toxic chemical may not affect you, but it could make them ill or even kill them. If your pets are in your house all day they're exposed to household chemicals three to four times longer than are you. As you go to work, the store, run errands, etc. you get relief from the toxins in your home. (The Environmental Protection Agency states that the air inside our homes is two to five times more toxic than air outside!)

Certain chemicals in cleaning supplies and aerosols are potential sources of danger to the health of your pets... and you.

Here's some examples:

* Chlorine products may make your fabrics white, but chlorine is a highly toxic poison. It was first used in chemical warfare. Chlorine fumes are fatal in high doses.
* Carpet cleaners include a known carcinogen that damages liver, kidney, and nervous systems.
* Antibacterial cleansers often contain Triclosan, which has been tied to liver damage.

What to do?

* Alternative cleaning products without harsh chemicals are readily available in most grocery stores as well as online.
* Use natural products, such as baking soda to eliminate odors in sinks, litter boxes, and clothing.
* Dry your clothes outdoors on a clothes line. The sun will brighten your whites (no need for bleach) and the air will make your clothes, bedding, and towels smell wonderful (no need for chemically dryer sheets or fabric softners).

Additionally, clean spills and stains immediately, remove food waste promptly, and use entry way mats at all entrances. Keeping your home clean will eliminate the need for chemical aerosols.

Less use of chemicals in your home means a healthier home for you... and your pets.

Kathy Wilson helps people get their life unstuck using a multi-faceted approach. She and her clients utilize life coaching, spiritual consulting, NLP, vibrational healing, and teaching, whatever if in her client's highest and best interests. She's a Certified Professional Coach, spiritual teacher, Reiki master, vibrational healer, and author of An Inner Journey: Living Your Life Purpose. For information about her products, services, and classes, visit her website: http://www.under-one-roof.net

If you're ready NOW to begin getting unstuck and living your life of purpose, email her at kwilson@under-one-roof.net
By Kathy Wilson
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kathy_Wilson

Training an African Grey

The African Grey can learn very quickly, Use food as a reward for good training and your bird will learn to behave fast...your African Grey will feel itself as part of the family and you will have a lot of fun living with it...

Training an African Grey

The African Grey is the most popular talking parrot for owners because it is well known for its clear pronunciation of words and sounds. How many words can an African Grey keep in its vocabulary? Well, about 2000. How intelligent is this parrot? It has the intelligence equal to a 5 year old child.


This, in the world of birds, is considered extremely intelligent.

The bird is very sociable and a very curious pet. It needs plenty of attention and training if you want it to become an adorable talking bird. But training can be challenging for the owner, especially if you are new to keeping birds. If you decide to get one you must be willing to stick with a training plan to fully develop its full potential.

The African Grey can learn very quickly, so it is important to only say things you want your bird to mimic. They can copy sounds around the house, like the phone or microwave beeping. If you have a unique cell phone ring tone, be prepared to handle false rings because your pet bird will be able to duplicate that sound pretty quickly.

The bird is also shy especially in the presence of strangers. Gradually introduce your bird to the rest of the family and to people who visit you often for the bird to get used to. Once they are comfortable with the rest of the family, they can be quite an adoring pet and family member.

The African Grey loves to play with toys. But don't overwhelm them with too many toys all at once. Introduce a toy gradually and let the bird get used to the feel of the toy. If the bird is playful, use training methods with positive reinforcement for better behavior. Use food as a reward for good training and your bird will learn to behave fast. Find out what your bird likes to eat first by watching its food tray. Use that favorite food as your reward for the bird.

You need to spend time with your bird everyday. Talk to your bird and let it get used to hearing your voice. Let your bird out of its cage and socialize with it. Feeding time is a great time to do this. If your bird feels uncomfortable, give it some time by itself to build its confidence.

Consistency and patience will pay off. Over time, your African Grey will feel itself as part of the family and you will have a lot of fun living with it.

Azmi Adnan is a writer and a bird enthusiast. Subscribe to his newsletter for fresh video clips on parrots and other bird species, ezines and interesting bird stories at his website http://www.power-to-live.com/parrot.html
By Azmi Adnan
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/